The apparel industry was fortunately free of any trouble for the last few days. But the calm could be very temporary and the risks of starting troubles afresh always remain. Intermittent troubles over the demand for wage-hike or regular payment of wage and arrears or rumours over deaths of workers in and around the main apparel hub - Ashulia, Gazipur and Savar belt - have become a common happening. No one would like to see workers agitating once again on the highways blocking traffic movement or hurling brickbats at passing vehicles or any other establishments or battling with law enforcers.
This is for record that the apparel export performance in the recent months was quite impressive, despite the frequent workers' troubles, international concern over the collapse of the Rana Plaza and deadly political agitation in the past few months. The sector demonstrated nervousness when the export growth slowed down to a paltry 3.0 per cent in October last. But there came a very strong recovery in November when export grew by 41 per cent over that of the previous month. Overall the apparel export growth in the first half of the current fiscal (2013-14) was around 20 per cent and more than the targets set for both knit and woven garments. This achievement was against all odds and risks, political or otherwise. The country, hopefully, would surpass the apparel export targets set for the year.
However, one need not ignore the difficulties, both psychological and financial, the apparel industry owners faced in meeting the shipment deadlines in the recent months. The contribution of the workers and all the relevant government and private agencies, which had to work in a very difficult environment, should be given due recognition. While recognising this exceptional feat, it will not be out of place to moot a question: How would have the apparel sector performed in the absence of workers' agitation and political unrest? Since 1991, the political troubles have usually been surfacing, prior to the general elections, mainly because of lack of sincerity on the part of politicians to devise a solution acceptable to all. However, the politicians belonging to two opposite camps, as it seems to be the case now, would have to find out a solution soon because of the growing pressure on them from all directions.
But what is about workers' unrest in the apparel sector? The labour leaders involved in the textile sector last Sunday met the newly appointed state minister for labour, Mr. Mujibul Haque, and apprised him of the major causes behind the labour unrest in the apparel industry. Most reasons listed by the labour leaders relate to workers' wages and non-compliance with various provisions of the new labour law. While lack of compliance with the government-approved new wage structure and labour rights by a section of apparel industry owners has been blamed for growing dissatisfaction among the workers, the labour leaders emphatically said that timely payment of wages, festival bonus and overtime bills would largely pacify the workers.
The apparel industry has both good and errant owners. The latter section has a propensity to deprive workers of their due under various pretexts. The government and the Bangladesh Garments Manufacturers and Exporters (BGMEA) as well as Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA) do not deny the existence of such owners. It would be prudent on the part of the administration and the related trade promotion bodies to initiate appropriate measures so that all owners go by the rules in terms of payment of wages and other benefits to the workers in order to get the industry free from frequent labour troubles.
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