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A day through the artistic heart of Kushtia

Afra Nawmi | Wednesday, 3 July 2024



Known as the capital of literature and culture, the Kushtia district is situated northwest and north of the Padma River. The writer, being of Kushtia origin, can confirm that the district is a heaven for everything it offers. A day tour in Kushtia can be an eye-opener about the area's rich cultural heritage.
Kushtia's artistic history, intertwined with the legacy of Biswakabi Rabindranath Tagore, has enriched Bangladesh's literature and culture. Kushtia is the birthplace of Bishad Sindhu composers Mir Musharraf Hossain and Baul Samrat Lalan. In the village of Hatash Haripur, lyricist, composer, and poet Azizur Rahman lived and is buried. Prominent poet Dad Ali, writer Mahmuda Khatun Siddika, and the author of the song 'Ei Padma Ei Meghna,' Abu Zafar, were all born in this town. Former Prime Minister Shah Azizur Rahman also hails from Kushtia. The region's literary and cultural heritage has been further enriched by figures such as Kangal Harinath, leader of the Blue Rebellion Pari Sundari, Swadeshi movement leader Bagha Jatin, engineer Kamrul Islam Siddiqui, and music artist Md. Abdul Jabbar and Farida Parveen.


Ismat Jahan Shama, a college professor in Dhaka and a native of Kushtia Sadar, speaks fondly of Kushtia. She says, "Kushtia is my birthplace, and I have explored every corner of it. I even had the privilege of attending the wedding of the renowned folk singer Fareeda Parvin. Kushtia is blessed with abundant natural beauty and has been a hub for business since the Mughal era. Walking down the streets, you will encounter historic British buildings, numerous coconut trees and the simple lifestyle of Kushtia's residents, all of which will captivate visitors."
This is a tiny city with a 1608.80 sq km area, and you can explore the historical sites in one day or two.
Anybody who is a fan of Kabiguru Rabindranath Tagore knows how much Kushtia is associated with his name. There are three famous abodes of Bishwakabi here: Shiladaha Rabindra Kuthibari, Tagore Lodge and Kaccharibari, where each brick holds Rabindranath's presence. Rabindranath's grandfather, Prince Dwarkanath Tagore, got this zamindari in Shilaidah village of Kumarkhali upazila of Kushtia district in 1807. Later, Rabindranath Tagore came here as a zamindar and managed the zamindari for around 12 years.


The beauty of Kushtia, Padma, and Gorai rivers inspired the Nobel laureate to write Sonar Tari, Chitra, Chaitali, and the English translation of Gitanjali. Jagadish Chandra Bose, Dwijendralal Roy, Pramath Chowdhury, and many others came to meet Rabindranath here. This place is enchanting and will take you back to Rabindranath's era. Situated nearer the Kuthibari Kaccharibari was the country house of Tagore, from where he managed his zamindari.
In 1895, Rabindranath Tagore involved himself in a business. He and his two nephews, Surendranath and Balendranath, set up Tagore & Company, a joint venture business in Shilaidaha. Tagore & Company shifted from Shilaidah to Kushtia for business convenience in the same year. The poet constructed a two-story building named Tagore Lodge in Milpara to look after the company. Sitting here, the poet wrote numerous poems, which were subsequently published in compilations named 'Khanika' and 'Katha O Kahini.' At present, this building is open to tourists.
The famous Bishad Shindhu author Mir Musharraf Hossain also resided here in Lahinipara of Kumarkhali Upazila, Kushtia. His residence is known as the Bastuvita of Mir Musharraf Hossain. Today, in the Bastuvita, there is a primary school, a secondary school, a small library, and a museum with the novelist's collection.
Kushtia had close connections with Kolkata even though it was under the Nodia district till the India-Pakistan partition. So, there is a significant Hindu population in this area. There is a renowned temple named Gopinath Jio Temple, built in the early 1900s, which now attracts tourists. The land was donated by Maharaja Pramath Bhushan Devarai of Naldanga of Jessore district with the contribution of local businessmen. In 1905, Maharaja Pramath Bhushan Dev initiated the current Rathkhola Gopinath Jio Temple and Rath Fair in memory of his wife. In 1913, the rich businessman Makhan Roy built a brass chariot of great shape with exquisite craftsmanship, which was the only chariot in the then-whole Indian subcontinent.
Kushtia is, perhaps, best known for Lalon Shah. The spiritual baul saint visited the Cheuriya in Kumarkhali, and later, after his death, a meeting ground and a shrine (Akhra) were built at his burial place as the Mausoleum of Lalon Shah. Fakir Lalon Shah's disciples and countless bauls from home and abroad gather here. A Lalon fair is held twice every year on the occasion of Dol Purnima and Tirodhan Dibosh (death anniversary) of Lalon. Baul philosophy has aroused the curiosity of thinkers not only in the country but also abroad, mainly due to Lalon Sha's poetic contributions.
One should stop by the memorial museum of Kangal Harinath Museum in Kumarkhali Upazila of Kushtia. Kangal Harinath Majumdar was a rebel, poet and editor of Gram Barta Prokashika. The museum's collection contains his manuscripts, poems, writing drafts, newspaper covers, various printing tools, several wooden blocks, and, recently, his printing press. The MN Press (named after Mathuranath) was made in 1867 in London. Mir Musharraf Hussain's Bishad Sindhu was printed from this press. Grambarta newspaper was also published from here.
Most of Kushtia's historical places are in the Kumarkhali Upazila, which is often called the 'cultural township' of Bangladesh. Nahid Shuvo, a native of Mirpur Upazila of Kushtia, shares, "In our school picnics, we visited either the Mausoleum of Lalon Shah or Shilaidaha Rabindra Kuthibari every year but never felt bored. We even took our relatives there when they visited Kushtia."
Visit the Jhowdia Shahi Mosque in Jhowdia village under the Kushtia Sadar police station, which has been preserved by the Department of Archeology since 1980. Shah Sufi Ahmad Ali alias Adari Mia, the zamindar of Jhowdia during the reign of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, built it. The place is unknown to many but a wonderful example of Mughal art. The mosque has three domes and four big minarets at its four corners.
As mentioned earlier, Kushtia was famous for business purposes during British rule; Mohini Mills of Kushtia became one of the largest textile mills in Asia. Mohini Mohan Chakraborty, a famous personality of then Kushtia, founded this cloth mill in 1908 as Kushtia Mohini Mills and Company Limited. As the production of this mill was much higher than other contemporary textile mills, it eventually became one of the best textile mills in the country. Mohini mill was recognized as the largest textile mill in Asia when it was operational. Mohini mill sarees and dhoti gained huge popularity in Bengal.
At the beginning of the nineteenth century, theatre and stage dramas gained momentum in the Kushtia region. A permanent theatre, Parimal Theatre, was built. Famous Kolkata actors Pramtesh Barua, Durga Das, Shishir Bhaduri, Angurbala, Indubala, and many others have come here many times. It was here in 1912 that the crowd welcomed the rebel poet Kazi Nazrul Islam.
Kushtia's Jagati Railway Station has been a witness to the history of the railways in Bangladesh. This is the country's first railway station, which was established by the British in 1862 to travel from Shilaidaha to Kushtia. The British considered this area important for trade and commerce at that time. Besides, as Kushtia is quite close to the Calcutta-Ranaghat railway line, it was decided to establish the first rail link in that direction. After the establishment of the Jagati railway station, the area flourished in trade and commerce. The 162-year-old Jagati is a red brick two-story building that is attractive to tourists.
Besides, Alauddin Park, GK colony, Reinweek Badh, and the Islamic University of Kushtia, alongside Gorai Nodi, the houses of Parree Shundori, Bagha Jatin, and Fareeda Parvin are must-see places when visiting Kushtia.
When returning home, you can either take the railway bridge or road transport from Kushtia; both are equally enjoyable. Kushtia has the second largest railway bridge in the country, the famous and historic Hardinge Bridge. It was an architectural wonder built over the Padma River in 1912. Parallel to Hardinge Bridge and situated downstream is the Lalon Shah Bridge, which opened in 2004 and facilitates better connectivity for the northwestern districts. Passing the bridge, you can enjoy the sun setting behind the river, creating a perfect moment to reflect on the journey and the memories created by observing a number of historical monuments of Kushtia.
When visiting Kushtia, you must not forget to have 'Kulfi malai', a special sweet delicacy found best here, and 'Tiler khaja'. These two sweet dishes rule the district and are the reasons why the people of Kushtia are so sweet, say the locals.
Kushtia is a top destination for the art enthusiasts. With a good plan to cover the city, a tour to Kushtia can feel like an artistic and philosophical journey. It's a matter of a day or two only, so what's stopping you?
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