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A passage through India

Joe Leahy | Friday, 18 July 2008


It is 1am and Ashok Alange prays for a safe trip, lighting incense sticks before the miniature statue of the Hindu elephant god Ganesh that he keeps fixed to his truck's dashboard.

In terms of distance, the 540-kilometre drive is relatively short in a nation of India's size. But the country's battered roads and red tape will turn the trip into an Indian infrastructure odyssey that will take nearly 24 hours with barely a break.

After only minutes on the road, the truck pulls into what will be the first of numerous government tax collection checkpoints and toll booths along the route. This one charges Rs100 ($2.35,