Global brands urged to adapt to BD realities

The Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI) -- a UK-based tripartite body championing labour rights in global supply chains -- called on buyers to adjust expectations and purchasing practices to accommodate the exceptional circumstances in Bangladesh caused by the anti-quota movement.
Due to the ongoing "volatile situation", according to the ETI, factories and production schedules could face disruption and necessary adaptations to working patterns should be expected.
"Production timelines may need to be extended due to factory closures resulting from unrest and state-imposed curfews," it said in an announcement on Wednesday, citing examples of expected changes in purchasing practices.
In the face of nationwide violence, export-oriented ready-made garment factories were closed for several days. They resumed production on Wednesday.
ETI said once communication channels are restored, responsible businesses sourcing from or operating in Bangladesh should engage with their suppliers to understand the potential impact of the unrest on orders and agree on manageable, realistic adjustments in line with ETI's recommended responsible purchasing practices.
ETI is a leading alliance of companies, trade unions and NGOs that promotes respect for workers' rights worldwide.
ETI's Wednesday announcement said, "We are gathering information to better assess the situation and its impacts on workers in supply chains."
However, communications with ETI Bangladesh have been extremely difficult due to the communication blackout, including the suspension of internet, mobile data and text message services.
While the Bangladesh Supreme Court has announced the removal of most job quotas that sparked the widespread protests, the situation is still volatile, it noted.
"Workers may be directly or indirectly impacted by the unrest, for example as they travel to and from work, or if they or their relatives have been injured or killed during this unrest."
It said the circumstances could disrupt factories and production schedules, requiring adjustments to working patterns. The ETI called on buyers to consider the challenges faced by affected businesses.
ETI will continue to monitor these developments, keeping its members informed about the evolving situation and expectations of responsible business during periods of unrest, it added.
Contacted, Mohammad Hatem, executive president of the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA), welcomed ETI's move, saying they received training from the Initiative and now it is also supporting brands.
Alongside ETI's call, he urged global apparel buyers not to cancel or relocate any work orders from Bangladesh due to the communication blackout last week.
He explained that production was disrupted by curfew-related closures while they were forced to pay additional charges for goods held at the port.
"I have to face Tk 0.2 million loss for eight containers," he said, adding that the shipping ministry should issue a notification instructing Chittagong Port not to charge any fees as the port authority could not deliver goods due to the closure.
He also urged the relevant authorities not to impose any penalties for the past six days.

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