Time to switch to non-cotton garment

After decades of steady growth with cotton-made products, it is high time the Bangladesh readymade garment (RMG) industry shifted its gears and strategically focused on man-made fiber (MMF) to drive further growth. A recent study conducted by Wazir Advisors Pvt Ltd. suggests that the expansion of non-cotton garment exports holds immense potential for the country's economy. According to the study, conducted under the patronage of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), Bangladesh has the potential to increase its non-cotton garment exports from the current $15.6 billion to an impressive $ 46 billion annually by 2032, if entrepreneurs were to invest $18 billion to enhance manufacturing capacity and a fully integrated value chain.
Of late, the global fashion landscape has undergone a dramatic shift, with the reign of cotton fading and MMF taking center stage. While cotton initially fuelled the surge of the Bangladesh apparel market, that seems now to have reached its peak and its growth potential appears limited. This echoes the global trend in fibre demand, where the cotton-to-MMF ratio has shifted from 75:25 thirty years ago to a stark 25:75 today.
This strategic change underscores the growing significance of apparel made from artificial fabrics in the global market. In spite of the seismic shift in fibre demand, with non-cotton fibre accounting for 75 per cent of garments manufactured globally, Bangladesh still relies on cotton fibers to make 71 per cent of the country's export-oriented products. In recent years, however, the country's RMG sector began to recognise the changing tide.
A recent report suggests manufacturers are actively aligning their strategies with the global trend and embracing MMF as the new frontier. This shift is evident in the rapidly rising imports and investments in MMF, with the import of MMF increasing by over 13 per cent in the past calendar year. Moreover, the study also finds that the use of non-cotton fibres in garment production in Bangladesh has increased from 25 per cent to 29 per cent over the past three years. This shift in preference towards non-cotton fibers presents Bangladesh with a lucrative opportunity to diversify its export portfolio and reduce its dependency on cotton fibers.
The study also suggests that the decline in China's share of the non-cotton garment market, coupled with Bangladesh's remarkable growth in this segment-from 1 percent to 5 percent in recent years-opens a new window of growth in this sector. Consequently, it is encouraging to note that Bangladeshi apparel exporters are increasingly turning to man-made fibers to secure better prices and expand their market reach. This strategic pivot towards non-cotton fibres aligns with Bangladesh's ambition to increase its share in the global apparel market from the current 7.87 per cent to 12 per cent by 2026.
Moreover, the surge in demand for non-cotton garments is not merely driven by market trends but also influenced by environmental factors. As consumers are becoming more environmentally conscious, the preference for non-cotton garments-perceived as eco-friendlier alternatives-is gaining momentum. MMF offers recyclability and reusability, aligning with the growing trend of sustainable clothing. Brands like H&M and Nike leverage recycled materials like polyester to attract environmentally conscious consumers.
Several other factors such as modern lifestyles and changing attitudes have led consumers to favour MMF for its easy care, functionality, and affordability. The growing "athleisure" trend further fuels the demand for polyester, a key MMF. Capitalising on this global trend, the MMF manufacturers are investing heavily in research and development to improve the technical and aesthetic properties of synthetic textiles such as polyester, viscose, recycled nylon and lyocell. Such improvements have not only helped the widespread usage of MMF products but also supported it in replacing other natural fibers.
Buoyed by this trend, many brands and retailers are shifting some products from cotton to man-made fibers. Moreover, cotton is becoming difficult and costlier to produce due to decreasing arable land. Other problems that have decreased the demand for natural cotton-made products are lower impact strength, shrinking after washing, variable quality influenced by weather, poor moisture resistance causing swelling of fibers, restricted maximum processing temperature, and low wetting with hydrophobic polymers. Alternatively, synthetic fiber has been offering some special benefits for both the consumers and the producers, along with offering solutions to the aforementioned problems of natural cotton.
This shift underlines that it's not a choice, but an imperative for Bangladesh to capitalise on the growing demand for artificial fibers, both to meet consumer preferences and to mitigate the environmental impact of cotton production. While Bangladesh currently imports non-cotton fibers worth US$ 1.2 billion annually, there exists immense potential for local investments to bolster garment exports and create additional opportunities.
In the end, the findings of the study emphasises a pivotal moment for Bangladesh's apparel industry. Perhaps even a crossroad-a moment that demands proactive investment and strategic alignment with global market trends. By seizing the potential of non-cotton garment exports, Bangladesh can not only diversify its export basket, but also emerge as a frontrunner in sustainable and competitive fashion manufacturing, driving economic growth and employment opportunities for its citizens. Policymakers and industry stakeholders must collaborate in harnessing this transformative potential of non-cotton garment export. This strategic shift driven by global trends, consumer preferences, and sustainability concerns opens doors for future growth and can solidify the country's position as one of the leading apparel manufacturers. Its potential is limitless.

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