History goes 500 years back

The Hammadia Mosque, one of just two mosques erected during the Sultanate era in Chattogram, stands near the Dhaka-Chattogram highway in Masjidda village of Kumira union under Sitakunda upazila.

This 500-year-old architectural gem, known as the 'Gaybi' or 'Invisible' Mosque for its distinctive dome, has lost its former splendor. Neglect and haphazard development have taken their toll. The crumbling plaster and deep cracks are marring the dome's once majestic splendor.

Historians attribute the construction of this mosque to Hamid Khan, the ruler of Chattogram, during the reign of Ghiyas Uddin Mahmud Shah, the final Sultan of the Husain Shahi dynasty in Bengal, between 1533 and 1538. Originally it was named the Hamidiya Mosque after its benefactor, Hamid Khan. Later it underwent a local transformation into the Hammadia Mosque.

The mosque consists of a square structure crowned by a dome. Positioned at each of its four corners are round turrets standing six metres tall, inclusive of their bases. Additionally, adorning the outer side of the Mehrab is a sizable circular minaret, topped with a miniature turret. While the surrounding minarets boast equal diameters, the minaret adjacent to the Mehrab surpasses them in size. Notably, the mosque's walls exceed three feet in width.

Moving to the east wall, three arched doorways punctuate its surface, while each of the north and south walls features a single window. These entrances are adorned with dual stone arch-frames, both inside and outside, with a distinctive toll-like arched roof nestled between them.

After the completion of the mosque's construction, the village was initially named Masjidiya village. However, over time, alterations in local pronunciation led to the village being commonly referred to as Masjidda.

On the eastern side of the mosque, a vast 10.37-acre pond known as Hammadia Dighi sprawls, accompanied by a cemetery. Additionally, a madrasah has been established on the southern side, catering to approximately two hundred students.

Locals said that the mosque was officially recognised as an ancient monument deserving preservation by the British government in 1896. It was noted that the mosque had already stood for over 400 years. Remarkably, this mosque is one of only two remaining buildings from the Sultanate era in Chattogram. The other Sultanate era mosque is situated in Hathazari upazila.

Moreover, the Antiquities Act of 1968, amended in 1976, stipulates that any ancient artifact or structure, at least a century old, exemplifying aspects of human civilization such as architecture, warfare, politics, or culture, can be designated as an article of antiquity. This legislation empowers the government to declare such antiquities worthy of preservation, shielding them from the threat of destruction.

With no proactive steps taken by the Archaeology Department to safeguard the heritage site, the mosque governing committee initiated an expansion project for the mosque in 2012, recognising the growing number of worshippers. However, the Archaeology Department intervened, halting the endeavour. Regrettably, despite this intervention, no further action was taken by the department to conserve the heritage site.

Subsequently, in 2016, construction commenced on a three-storied building encompassing the mosque's north, east, and south sides. Although efforts were made to preserve the original mosque's integrity, design flaws resulted in its concealment. Over time, due to neglect, the plaster on the walls deteriorated, and the walls became discoloured from lack of paint. Sadly, the unique charm of this Sultanate-era mosque has faded.

According to the governing committee, while the ancient mosque could accommodate only 25 worshippers previously, the adjacent mosque built later now hosts over a thousand worshippers, reflecting the changing needs of the community.

Mohammad Sharif, the general secretary of the mosque governing committee, emphasised that the decision to expand the mosque primarily was aimed at accommodating worshippers. Initially, there was an endeavour to extend the mosque while preserving its original structure. However, an error by the engineer led to the inadvertent covering of a portion of the dome. Subsequently, a new design was drafted by an architect, and construction work progressed accordingly.

Addressing concerns about the deteriorating plaster of the mosque, Sharif noted its historical significance as a 490-year-old Chunsurki building. He acknowledged issues such as water accumulation during the rainy season and disclosed that an architect had been consulted recently. "The architect provided guidance on leak-proofing measures using plaster, and appropriate reforms will be implemented accordingly", he assured.

Regarding the ongoing construction of the extended building, Sharif revealed that Tk 25 million (2.5 crore) had been expended on the infrastructure of the three-story extension. Funding for the project was sourced from donations by Muslim benefactors and charitable individuals. However, an additional Tk 20 million (2 crore) is required to complete the construction. Sharif lamented the intermittent halts in construction due to funding shortages, highlighting the necessity to prioritise work based on the availability of funds.

A. K. M. Saifur Rahman, Chattogram regional director of the Archaeology Department, revealed that a project proposal aimed at preserving the Hammadia Mosque had been forwarded to the headquarters. Rahman explained, "However, there has been no update yet. We plan to dispatch a team to assess the current condition of the heritage site. If the distortion is not too severe, we will take the necessary steps to ensure its preservation."

Despite the myriad challenges faced, there is a glimmer of hope on the horizon. The pending project proposal for the preservation of the Hammadia Mosque signifies a potential lifeline for this ancient structure. With heightened focus and collective endeavours, there exists a tangible opportunity to rescue this relic of Chattogram's illustrious history from fading into obscurity.

Dr Jesmin Akter is an educationist and artist