RAJSHAHI, Apr 11: In the bustling city of Rajshahi lies a hidden gem - a shop without a name or even a signboard. Yet, for over sixty years, people have flocked to this roadside eatery located at Batar Morh for its famous Jilapi - a sweet made of thin batter made of flour and fried in sugar syrup.
Today, the shop has gained popularity and is affectionately referred to as 'Batar Morher Jilapi'. Visiting the shop recently during Ramadan, it was found a throng of people eagerly waiting in long queues for their chance to purchase the delicious sweetmeat.
The owner of the shop said the demand for their Jilapi triples during Ramadan as it is a popular addition to the Iftar menu.
One loyal customer, Shariful Islam from the Shalbagan area, attested that he has been indulging in this sweet treat for the past thirty years.
Despite his concerns about sugar intake, Shariful insisted that the Jilapi from this shop is a must-have for any Iftar menu. "At present, I take less sugar for fear of diabetes. But the Jilapi of this shop is a must for the Iftar item. If it is not included, the Iftar menu seems incomplete."
The journey of this Jilapi shop began in the 50s when its founder, Soeb Uddin, named it Ranibazar Restaurant. However, the signboard was ruined over time, and now, the shop is known to all as 'Batar Morher Jilapi'.
The recipe for the Jilapi was invented by Jamini Saha, and initially, he used to make it alone. However, after his death in 1980, his son Kalipad Saha became the chief chef, and today, two of Kalipad's disciples - Safat Ali and Shafiqul Islam - carry on his legacy.
Shamim, one of Soeb's sons who manages the shop, said that they had to increase the prices of the Jilapi due to the rise in commodity prices, but they always prioritised maintaining the taste and quality of their product.
He said they used to sell Jilapi at Tk 140 per kg which is now Tk 180.
Shamim added that the secret to the Jilapi's taste lies in their use of pure ingredients and a unique recipe. They make the traditional Jilapi using rice and maskalai flours, water, palm oil, and dalda.
Despite the increase in prices, the demand for their Jilapi remains strong, with over 200 kg sold every day during Ramadan.
According to Safat Ali, they use several types of flour and edible oil to fry the Jilapi, ensuring that the taste and technique remain consistent year after year.
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