A case for rasgolla

'Rasgolla', perhaps the most popular and delectable of all sweets the Bangalees take pride in, has made news headlines for something unexplored before. This is its quality to be an effective substitute for alcoholic drinks. To go by Nitish Kumar, the chief minister of the Indian state of Bihar, it becomes evident that ever since the banning of wine seven months ago in his state, rasgolla's sale has picked up by 16 per cent. Demand for other sweets like pera, khowa and cheese has also registered a rise. Even milk now enjoys an 11 per cent higher demand.

If rasgolla has exercised this sobering influence on drinkers or drunkards, the popular sweetmeat over which the Indian states of Bengal and Orissa are fighting for geographical indication (GI) tag has elevated its position a few notches up. The dispute over which place this unique sweet originated from is yet to be settled at the Chennai High Court in India. Orissa claims that this particular sweet was offered to the Goddess Laxmi at the Jagannath Temple of Puri in the 12th century. But the Bangalees claim that Nabin Das of Kolkata was the pioneer of this delicacy. He perfected the sweetmeat 150 years ago.

There are views that rasgolla known as kheer mohan in Orissa was a different variety made of kheer which is produced by boiling milk but not from chhana. On the other hand, chhana too is obtained from boiled milk at a low temperature when treated with citrus juice. Also, if the dish of sweet was offered, as claimed by Orissa, before the Goddess Laxmi, it has to be freshly prepared. Kheer mohan or rasgolla prepared from kheer might have been the likely sweet in that case. But the mouth-watering soft sweet called rasgolla produced from chhana and flour before boiling them in sugary syrup is most likely a Kolkata edition. Chhana takes a lot of time to take its proper form and then it is meshed with flour to give rasgolla a round shape. Even credit goes to descendants of Nabin Das for introducing the later technique of caning them for export.

The Bangalees on both sides of the border will feel disappointed if the invention right of their favourite sweetmeat goes to Orissa. Like rasgolla, a few other such delicacies like Porabarir chamcham, Muktagachhar monda have embedded in their name the place of origin. But no one can be sure that some impostors will not suddenly make a claim that those items are the geographical property of their forefathers. Should Tangail's Porabari or Muktagachhaha of Mymensingh apply for official confirmation of the GI right for chamcham and monda respectively?

Meanwhile, the Biharis have been enjoying the double benefit of rasgolla. The Indian state of Bihar was never known for the art of preparing as fine a sweetmeat as this variety. If their type can be a substitute for alcohol, what the finest variety still produced in places like Gournadi should do, given the opportunity? Every year people in Bangladesh and other parts of the subcontinent die from drinking crude form of local wine called 'cholai' or spirit. Why not push rasgolla as a substitute? Sale of this sweetmeat will have a shot in the arm and unless they practise overeating it, people will remain healthy. Nitish Kumar discloses that his people are healthier now. Additionally, crime has come down substantially as a result of getting rid of alcohol. Other states in India and its neighbours can take a cue from it.