According to a study published in the Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology (2019), about 30 per cent of people suffer from dry skin at a given time. This is a very common condition. While usually not life-threatening, dry skin is uncomfortable and reduces quality of life.
One of the most used solutions for dry skin is moisturising lotions. Moisturisers can help relieve dryness, but does it always solve the problem? The answer is no.
Overwashing is probably one of the main reasons for the failure of moisturisers. Remember staying in the shower for hours under hot water? Or applying some fancy-looking soaps or cleansers which might contain ingredients damaging to your skin? They can wash away substances known as NMF, or natural moisturising factors from our skin. They form the natural barriers to help contain moisture in the skin.
Most moisturisers work by enhancing or supporting this barrier. Any harm to the barrier, therefore, reduces the effectiveness of these products. Check how the skin feels after a bath. If it is irritated or tight, then it might have been overwashed.
Covid introduces us to the practice of frequent hand sanitisation. But such a practice can also dry the skin and affect moisturiser performance. A similar effect is observed with some fragrance products. Traces of laundry detergent or softeners in the cloth may also harm our skin's natural barrier.
The problem with exfoliation is another cause. Generally, skin sheds dead cells and generates new ones to replenish haps. But if the process is interrupted, dead cells accumulate on the surface, preventing moisturisers from exerting their actions.
Dehydration impairs moisturisers as well. Another factor is using products beyond the expiration date. We should always be cautious about that. The choice of the moisturiser is also critical, as not all products are suitable for all skin types. We need to determine our skin type and select the right product.
Swimmers among us have additional risk in the form of the chlorinated water from the pool. Chlorine can remove NMF and make the skin porous, allowing moisture to evaporate. It is necessary to wash the chlorine off completely before applying moisturiser. Water quality in our household is crucial, too, as high concentrations of magnesium and calcium can harm the skin's natural barrier.
If the dryness is due to adverse effects of medications or treatment, then moisturisers cannot help. Birth control pills, topical steroids, chemotherapy, radiation therapy, cholesterol-lowering agents, etc., can cause that. If there is an underlying skin disease, e.g., eczema, psoriasis, or other medical conditions like diabetes, renal failure, or thyroid disease, it can also lead to dry skin. Those need to be managed first before moisturisers can work.
We can do some things when our moisturisers are not working as expected. If we are using a lotion, this can be replaced with a different formulation, e.g., creams or ointments. People with oily skin should avoid heavy, greasy products. Such people should apply a thick moisturiser before sleep and a thinner one during the daytime.
There is no ideal moisturiser in the market. But there are ingredients we should look for. According to the American Academy of Dermatology Association, moisturisers should contain at least some of the following elements for effectiveness: mineral oil, petrolatum, lanolin, shea butter, hyaluronic acid, glycerin, jojoba oil, lactic acid and dimethicone.
To avoid overwashing, bath or shower time should be restricted to 5-10 minutes, and lukewarm or warm water is preferred to hot water. A shower gel or non-soap cleanser is a good choice to cleanse the body. Soap use must be limited to certain areas, i.e., groin and armpits. For handwashing, allergen-free soap is recommended, followed by moisturising cream. To do laundry, dye and perfume-free detergents are the best choices.
To manage dry skin, a consistent routine must be followed. Moisturisers alone cannot do enough; they must be combined with a regimen of cleaners and toners. If dry skin persists, it may be time to reach out to a dermatologist to understand if there are some underlying conditions.
imtiazdmc@gmail.com