Khulna, a city flourishing along the Rupsha River, symbolizes Bangladesh's rich medieval history and culture. Just a short journey away lies Bagerhat, a town renowned for its red-domed mosques, large dighis (reservoirs), and medieval heritage.
From the visionary endeavors of Hazrat Khan Jahan Ali in the 15th century to the Baro-Bhuyan rule by Raja Pratapaditya during the Mughal era, this region is a living chronicle of time.
Reflecting on my university days at the Department of Economics, University of Dhaka, I fondly remember the numerous tours I took with friends and classmates. However, as graduation led us into the demands of professional life, I realized that I had never toured with Imran and Raihan, my closest companions from school.
Determined to change that, we meticulously planned a weekend trip to Khulna and Bagerhat, ensuring it wouldn't conflict with work commitments.
We boarded a bus to Khulna at midnight on Thursday, hoping to witness the majestic Padma River from both sides of the Padma Bridge. However, January's dense fog obscured the view.
Initially planning to get off at Zero Point, we opted for Shonadanga due to the eerie stillness and thick fog. Without a hotel reservation, we sought refuge in a roadside Bangla hotel for breakfast while waiting for daylight. As we planned to visit Bagerhat first, a kind waiter gave us directions. By 7 a.m., we boarded a local bus to our first destination.
We arrived in Bagerhat by 8 a.m., only to discover that the Sixty Dome Mosque, or Shait Gombuj Masjid, wouldn't open until 9 a.m. Spontaneously, I suggested visiting the Ayodhya Math, a 17th-century temple located in Kodhla village, about 10 km north of Bagerhat. We hired an autorickshaw and embarked on a rustic journey. After a 30-minute ride, we reached the towering terracotta structure of Ayodhya Math, standing solitary amidst the village.
The origins of Ayodhya Math remain uncertain. Some believe Hindu ascetics established it in the 17th century, while others claim it predates that, possibly serving Buddhist monks.
Its intricate terracotta designs show the craftsmanship of medieval artisans. As we took photographs, an elderly local, Enayet Hossain, approached us, eager to share its history.
Passionate yet frustrated about the lack of research on its origins, he recounted tales from Hazrat Khan Jahan Ali's time to the present. After a half-hour of conversation, we bid him farewell.
Returning to Bagerhat, we next visited the Mausoleum of Khan Jahan Ali. A revered 15th-century Sufi saint of Turkish origin, he founded Bagerhat and oversaw the construction of mosques, roads, and reservoirs that transformed the once-swampy terrain.
At the mausoleum, devotees gathered, offering chickens, goats, and ducks in hopes of fulfilling their wishes. Behind it lay a vast dighi, the largest in Bagerhat, dug by Khan Jahan Ali to combat water salinity and scarcity.
As we departed, vendors lined the streets, selling peculiar fruits. Our curiosity led us to discover diverse fruits collected from the Sundarbans, including Kolkata (Nypa fruticans). We sampled Kolkata and another unidentified fruit with multiple nuts inside, adding a unique flavor to our adventure.
Before entering the Sixty Dome Mosque, the adjacent Bagerhat Museum, established in 1995, preserves artifacts from the district's Islamic and medieval past.
The Sixty Dome Mosque, built in the 15th century by Khan Jahan Ali, symbolizes an architectural marvel. Despite its name, the mosque features over seventy domes supported by numerous columns and arches.
At 1 p.m., we arrived in Khulna, hungry and uncertain about our next stop. Fortunately, my friend Raihan's university mate, Sakib, came to our rescue.
A resident of Khulna, he promised to show us around. As he lived far away, we decided to wait for him at Khulna University. We performed our Jumma prayers at the Khulna University Central Mosque, an architectural gem with its white dome and vast prayer space.
Once Sakib arrived, our Khulna tour began. We strolled around the university campus, taking in its serene atmosphere before our stomachs started to growl.
Following our new guide's suggestion, we headed to Zero Point for lunch, unaware that our Khulna tour would become an unforgettable food adventure.
Sakib took us to Kamrul Hotel, renowned for its legendary Chui Jhal beef curry, a regional specialty. The tender beef, perfectly spiced and infused with the aromatic Chui, a unique woody spice native to the region, created an explosion of flavors. It was heavenly for our empty stomachs, accompanied by Chui-infused daal and plain white rice.
After a short tea break, we handed over our itinerary to Sakib. He suggested Batiaghata as our next stop, a peaceful riverside escape outside the city.
A 40-minute auto ride later, we arrived in Batiaghata, where the Rupsha River unfolded in its winter serenity. In the winter afternoon, the Rupsha River looked calm, with boats and small transport ships constantly passing by.
As we took in the peaceful vibes, a sight caught our attention: two large trawlers filled with young boys dancing to loud Bhojpuri songs. Their uninhibited joy amused us, making the moment even more memorable.
Our Khulna food tour resumed in Shibbari, a bustling food hub. We indulged in unique dishes we had never tried before: Shemai Pitha with curry and Nawabi Shemai, a dessert resembling Middle Eastern Kunafa.
While planning our trip, we had seen YouTube videos of the famous Dim Ghuta of Khulna New Market, an omelet-like delicacy. However, Sakib recommended a vendor at Circuit House Mor instead.
Watching the vendor prepare our Dim Ghuta with swift, practiced hands was a spectacle. The dish resembled a French omelet, fried on the outside and soft and runny inside, with a Deshi twist of local spices elevating its taste.
Circuit House Mor is a popular hangout spot, lined with tea stalls and filled with locals deep in conversation. We extended our stay, sipping tea while reminiscing about our school and college days. An hour passed effortlessly in laughter and gossiping. Then we left the place for the last leg of our food tour: Golam er Puri and the sweets of Satkhira Ghosh Dairy.
We took an auto to Powerhouse Mor, home to the famous Golam er Puri. These tiny, puffed fritters, sold for just 2 taka each, were addictive. We devoured around 50, savoring their simplicity with rock salt, chilies, and onions.
Then, to bring home a taste of Khulna, we bought Shorpuria and Gurer Sondesh (jaggery-infused sondesh) from Satkhira Ghosh Dairy.
By 11 p.m., we reached Sonadanga Bus Stand, ready for our journey back to Dhaka. We bid Sakib farewell, thanking him for transforming our impromptu visit into something extraordinary.
As we settled into our seats, we realized we had gone on a trip that seamlessly merged history and cuisine, exploration and nostalgia.
What began as a historical tour in the morning evolved into an unexpected Khulna food pilgrimage by night. Traveling with childhood friends made it even more special, making this experience one of the best ways to start this year.
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